It is already becoming difficult to keep track of all the collections that emphasize working with black. Yes, black is back, but it’s constantly being given a new look, in particular through the use of different fabrics and materials, and hardly any of them has a gothic look, or sharply minimalist, or aggressively feminine, or ominously apocalyptic. And even when leather is used, as, for example, Valentino quite unexpectedly did, there is always room for something new and elegant.

This decision by Valentino is another step in the way of the label renewal by Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri , cautious but very skillful; it’s about finding a balance between honoring the classics and following the flair that shows where today’s fashion world is heading.

However, black leather in the Valentino collection? The hooded cape, pants, and white scarf, leather jumpsuit, and long, tight black cloak might have shocked anyone who viewed the Valentino house as a haven of fragile, old-world femininity, but a closer look reveals what the designers really wanted to say. The delicacy and sophistication can be seen in the use of very thin leather (flexible like fabric), and in the seams, which are not done on an “old-fashioned” sewing machine, but by hand, like on silk macramé. And what is the result? All of this pushes new Valentino fans a little outside of their comfort zone, but in the right direction.

The prevailing concept this autumn, according to the designers, is the use of “folk” ideas, thought out in detail and “polished”. The trap would have been an overuse of references to hippie and traveler accessories, but the designers were able to get around this by keeping the patterned long dress simple, with little rose blooms on the high-waist sundress, and using puffs only occasionally to accentuate the shoulders in a cream-colored dress. with long sleeves.

But the main thing is that Piccioli and Chiuri now have a true sense of direction, they were able to see the path along which to move on. They were looking for a more natural and less ruled-out kind of female beauty, one that didn’t like to walk around in very high heels, combed, and fully made up.

Romance is still basking in the work of these designers, and you are guaranteed to burst out with an exclamation of admiration at the sight of silver embroidery on lace for an evening dress. Today, the perfect Valentino woman can easily go to a party in low heels and feel free and at ease.